9th November, 2023: The alarm went off at 6:30 a.m. We were fatigued from the previous day’s departure and the train travel to Chiang Mai. However, today’s voyage will cover a lot of ground. Our minivan is scheduled to arrive in front of our flat between 7:30 and 8:00. We’ll travel to Chiang Rai to see the two modern temples, Thawan’s Black House, and the Golden Triangle (Sop Ruak) to the north. Yes, you read it right. Triangle of Gold.

As you can see from Part I, we booked this leg of our trip with Click2GoThailand.com. If I could go back in time, I’d spend one day touring Chiang Mai’s Old City. I was reading through the Lonely Planet Thailand guide the other day, trying to come up with a list of probable destinations. Clearly, group excursions were not on my radar.

• Chiang Dao (the caves north of Chiang Mai)
• Doi Inthanon (the highest peak in Thailand)
• A bike trip around the Samoeng Loop?
• Mae Rim (to see the Lanna princess’ Dara Rasmee palace)
• San Kamphaeng (to see the handicrafts of this region of Thailand)

Mum informed me that there are tour packages (both group and private) available that will allow us to see a variety of locations in a short period of time. Even though that was hardly the correct method to tour such exotic places, I considered the options available. One of them grabbed my attention. “Chiang Rai and the Golden Triangle” . I had heard of the fabled Golden Triangle in history and thought this would be an excellent opportunity to learn more about it. This was an option that Mom and I agreed on.

The following day, I used the Lonely Planet guidebook and wikitravel.org to learn more about this section of Thailand. Guided excursions often include stops to the White Temple, Blue Temple, Golden Triangle, and Mekong River boat tours. Some of them may include a visit to Mae Sai (Thailand’s northernmost town), a crossing to the Burmese border town of Tachileik, a boat ride to the Laotian island of Don Sao, Karen villages, and the Black House. The tour package we selected from the Click2GoThailand website, however, only included the Black House. (In fact, a summary of the itinerary on their website did mention the Don Sao ferry until I found it was incorrect).

I was unsure about the current situation in Myanmar’s Shan State, given the civil conflict and the Don Sao Island, which, despite being part of the Laos PDR, falls under the Laos Golden Triangle Special Economic Zone (GTSEZ), which is owned by the Kings Roman Group. The Laos government awarded this Chinese organization a lease to develop this section of the country (in Bokeo Province). A casino and hotel were built. Nobody gets a real Laos experience by just visiting this island. The so-called ‘Long Neck Karen Villages’ appeared to be a swindle to us, as the Karen people who dwell there are not Thai citizens, but rather refugees from Myanmar’s civil war. Going to these settlements to photograph the long-necked Karens was immoral. Despite the fact that access to these villages is taxed, the tour operators earn from the fee, while none of the people do.

After returning, Mum and I went to a Lotus Express in Nimmanhemin to get the stuff we needed for the minivan journey, and then we had brunch at Lanzhou Noodles, a decent Chinese restaurant. Click2GoThailand recommends that we snap a photo of our passports with our phones. (After all, we’re heading to a border crossing). We returned to the apartment around 07:10 to prepare for the trip, and we arrived at 07:25. It was a bright day in Chiang Mai, and the amount of traffic on the roadways was increasing by the minute. It was now 8:00 a.m., and the minivan hadn’t arrived.

Mum questioned whether the tour operator had already skipped us and urged me to consider “Plan B” (most likely Doi Inthanon). I acted swiftly, calling the Click2GoThailand account, which promptly gave me the tour operator’s (Wendy’s) phone number. The person on the other end of the phone spoke awful English, but they claimed our minivan was attempting to locate our address. Two minivans drove by, but they were not ours. After about 15 minutes, a minivan drove up in front of us. A man stepped out of the Toyota minivan. Yothin is his name. He will be our tour guide for the day.

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There were other tourists. We had to sit in the back because we were the last people in. The remaining seven travelers traveled from all around the world. Piotr and Maggie were both from Poland. The last four were from Venice, Italy: Sam, his wife, Alonso, and Lorenza. Then there was Aileen, an American (from New Jersey but originally from the Dominican Republic). The vehicle drove to Highway 11 until exiting onto Highway 118 (Chiang Mai-Chiang Rai Highway). Yothin, or Yo-Yo, introduced himself and reminded us of our destination. Aileen, one of the tourists, decided to visit the Karen village. The guide instantly mentioned the “Karen Village,” claiming it was not “any human trafficking scam,” but rather a “opportunity” to observe the long-necked folks. Essentially, they were seeking to encourage us to visit these places, but in vain. When he asked if any of the tourists were vegetarian, I had to respond.

From Chiang Mai to Mae Chedi, Highway 118 is four lanes wide before becoming double lanes. Because the travel to Chiang Rai was long, the minivan maintained an average speed of 100 km/h. Until Mae Chedi, the environment was steep and dotted with Buddha stupas. The roads were twisty and full of warning signs.

We arrived at Mae Khachan Hot Springs about 8:30 a.m. There were many Wendy’s minivans parked nearby. Mae Khachan is a renowned tourist site. The genuine hot springs are just around the corner and may be reached after a short walk (around 300 meters). The road leading there is lined with tourist stores selling products for extravagant prices. Mum and I were strolling around when we observed some villagers frying duck eggs in a nearby well.

I noticed Alonso walking with a mini-camera linked to an adjustable metallic rod before he got inside the minivan. He was filming a video with this equipment at an insane height, setting himself apart from others. We took a quick stop here before moving on to Wat Rong Khun, or the White Temple. The scene appeared bizarre. The photographs had reflections (some taken from behind, but with thin horizontal black lines), so they weren’t fantastic. However, it provides an indication of how the road is.

At 9:45 a.m., the minivan turns left at the intersection of Highways 118 and 1. Highway 1 starts in Bangkok and finishes at Mae Sai. The roadway became increasingly congested, and after 10 kilometers, we arrived at Wat Rong Khun, also known as the White Temple.

Wat Rong Khun: Chalermchai Kositpipat, a Thai architect, began building Wat Rong Khun in 1997. Despite its unusual appearance, this temple appears to be white and built of gleaming porcelain. If you look closely, you can see that it is composed of clear mirrored chips and whitewash, hence the name “White Temple.” Unlike other Buddhist temples with typical Buddhist paintings of Jataka or Buddha’s life, this temple displays scenes from the realm of reincarnation as well as other imagery (oddly enough) such as the World Trade Center, Matrix’s Neo, Terminator, Spider-Man, and Harry Potter. These images are exhibited despite the fact that the meaning is vague, implying that people are fundamentally bad. Naga serpents embellish numerous parts of this temple. A golden structure stands out from the rest of the temple due to its colour. Crossing the bridge takes you to the “Gate of Heaven,” from which you enter the ubosot, or ordination hall in Thai. Nearby are two “Kinnaree” statues, Buddhist mythological beings who are half-human and half-bird. This temple represents modern Thai architecture with Lanna influences.

I strolled about (photography is prohibited inside the ubosot, or ordination hall), and one thing that distinguished this temple from others in Thailand was the presence of only one monk. The restrooms received a fresh coat of ‘gold’ paint. There was an exhibition hall with several Buddha sculptures, Kositpipat’s hall with his artwork (Tankhun Art Gallery) and some souvenirs for sale, and another hall with posters for the forthcoming Chiang Rai Biennale (December 2023 to April 2024). It took approximately an hour to go around this facility. We returned to our minivan, and the tour guide took us to a restaurant for lunch. (The tour ticket includes lunch.)

Customers came from a wide range of backgrounds, with Westerners making up the majority. When I explained that I could only eat vegetarian food, the server gave me the vegetarian plate, which contained soup (celery, turnips, and spinach), salad (mainly capsicums, papayas, and tomatoes), an egg omelet, and noodles. Our tourmates ordered a non-vegetarian entrée made mostly of rice and pork stew. Italians favored pig stew and egg omelet, whilst Poles preferred rice and vegetable salad. The American shot each dish, ostensibly for “status” on her social network. While Mum finished her lunch and left the table, I ate a fruit salad. I saw Mum talking to Yothin outdoors. After finishing my lunch, I strolled outside (the restaurant was busy!) and discovered them talking about the parallels between Thailand and India. Our guide mentioned a desire to visit India someday, specifically Bombay.

Our Polish friends joined us and began speaking with us. Maggie handed me a gift from her homeland in Poland and informed me that she is traveling to Thailand with her husband, Pyotr. He appeared withdrawn, and she did the brunt of the talking. This appears to be the last stage of their journey before returning to their native nation. The Italians finished their dinner in twenty minutes, and by the time they stepped outside, our minivan had arrived. We move on to the next item of interest, Wat Rong Suea Ten.

The scenery transitioned from mountainous wooded area to a bustling cityscape. We arrived at Wat Rong Suea Ten, also known as the Blue Temple, after crossing the Kok river. It is located around 15 kilometers north of the White Temple.

Wat Rong Suea Ten: The temple, like the White Temple, was constructed by a local artist, Phuttha Kabkaew (a disciple of Chalermchorn Kositpipat), and has neo-Buddhist architecture and murals. When we arrived, the entryway statues were still under building. It’s worth mentioning that these two temples were erected on the foundation of an older Buddhist temple that had fallen into decay.

After looking around for about 20 minutes, we sat down on the benches in the shade. Alonso and Lorenza, two Italians, joined us, and I talked to them. The Italians had arrived for their three-week holiday to Thailand, which had just begun. After ten minutes, we’re on our way to the Baan Dam Museum.

Baan Dam Museum: The Baan Dam, commonly known as the Black House, is ten kilometers north of the Blue Temple and houses Thai artist Thawan Duchanee’s artwork. If the White Temple symbolizes heaven, the Black House represents damnation. The complex includes the Sanctuary, which houses Duchanee’s paintings, sculptures, animal pelts, and bones; a Reptile House; pavillions containing the Buddha and numerous drums; the Twelve Galae Triplets Black House, Fishtrap House, Glass House, Hornbill House, stupas; and the Tripitaka Hall. A paddy farm (40 structures in total) is located behind the compound. The houses are constructed in a variety of wood or terracotta styles in accordance with Lanna architecture.

It clarifies Buddhist principles including reincarnation, evil, and the concept of rebirth. Duchanee spent his final years here before passing away. The Baandam Art Space is located at the other end of the Baan Dam Road.

To be honest, I preferred the way and location of Baan Dam to the other two temples. Each painting in the Sanctuary has a QR code that visitors can use to learn more about its importance. It took nearly an hour to wander through this beautiful space. My mother did not like it and departed right away. It was 15:30 p.m. Our tour mates appeared dissatisfied after visiting the Baan Dam. The minivan picked us up from the parking lot. When our tour guide inquired whether anyone else was heading to Long Neck Village, Aileen said, “I won’t be long.”

The minivan drove left off the highway, and “Long Neck Village” was just a few kilometers away. It indicates the location of this “village” on Google Maps. The guide attempted unsuccessfully to persuade us to visit this village. We hurriedly left since Mum and I did not want to enter here. I continued straight ahead down this lonely road, planning to explore the area. The route goes to the Mae Khao Tom reservoir. Of course, I didn’t visit this reservoir because I didn’t have time. However, it was desolate. After two kilometers of running on this hilly route, I returned to the parking lot panting for air. Surely, a hill workout?

After forty minutes, Aileen appeared. She called it “a new experience for her” and donated directly to those in need. Our other tourmates were sipping ‘Chang,’ a locally brewed Thai beer (Singha is its rival). Some may argue that viewing them is ethical if you understand their background, but it felt more like a ‘human zoo’ to me. We left this location and headed to the trip’s major highlight, the Golden Triangle! The minivan traveled north till it reached Thanchanok, then turned right toward Chiang Saen. We arrived at the main roundabout (the Chiang Saen bypass roads) about 16:00 hours and headed left towards Sop Ruak.

to 16:30 p.m., we arrived to Sop Ruak, also known as the “center of the Golden Triangle.” The Golden Triangle is a geographical area that spans thousands of square kilometers over three countries: Myanmar, Laos, and Thailand. This region was the world’s leading opium grower. Khun Sa, commonly known as the “Opium King,” was a key figure in this region. He was of Shan and Chinese heritage and came from Mae Salong, a village in Chiang Rai province. He was able to control a substantial amount of the world’s opium traffic with his army, the Shan United Army (SUA), and ex-Kuomintang troops from his village. In 1996, he surrendered to Burmese authorities and died in Yangon in 2007. The opium trade in Thailand has ended, but the term “Golden Triangle” continues to be used as a marketing tactic by tour operators. Opium is restricted to the museums Hall of Opium and House of Opium. In terms of the town, the Ruak River flows between Myanmar and Thailand and joins the Mekong River, which flows between Myanmar and Laos. The former is a stream that flows into the latter. The river’s headwaters are in China’s Yunnan province.

We did not, however, visit these museums because to time constraints (maybe next time we visit Chiang Rai). We started by zipping over to the Mekong River viewpoint. The following photographs demonstrate this. I switched to a different vantage point near the Thai border crossing. The most famous monument is Phra Chiang Saen Si Phaendin. It’s a big Buddhist statue. After exploring these areas, we proceeded to the boating pier. Mum and I sat in the front row. At 16:45 p.m., the tourist boat was entirely full. Another Wendy tour group, led by a female guide, filled the majority of the seats here.

The boat embarked on a sightseeing cruise of the Mekong River, not crossing into Burma or Laos. As far as I could tell, the Burmese side featured a Paradise resort, and the Laotian side had a Kings Roman Casino and a hotel. During the boat tour, the lady guide explained the significance of this town, opium, and the Mekong River in general. This guide allegedly roasted a Mexican guest on the boat because Mexico is one of the world’s major drug manufacturers. The river was crowded with dredgers and rafters. The possibility to sail from Chiang Saen to Jinghong in Yunnan Province, which would take around 15 hours on the Mekong River, was canceled owing to the drug-related shooting that murdered 13 Chinese sailors. “You won’t get any Laos experience by visiting that area,” she remarked of the Laotian part. If you want that, visit Luang Prabang or Vientiane. People there will greet you with ni-hao (Chinese for welcome) rather than sabaai-dii (Lao). After a 45-minute ride, the boat returned to the same port, where we promptly departed.

Being so close to the border of two Southeast Asian countries was an unforgettable experience. I posed for photographs with the guide and driver. After a tiring trek, the minivan whisked us away for a lengthy return ride to Chiang Mai. I spent a long time talking to Aileen. She’s an adventurous traveler visiting South-East Asia. What motivated her to take this trip? Aside from tourism, she decided to go to Vietnam since her recently discovered grandfather (by genealogical tests) was a US Army Vietnam War soldier. Her reaction to the discovery was emotional. We shared comparable interests.

On its return, the minivan took a somewhat different path. The Thai country road 1063 led us closer to Chiang Rai. It crossed the Kok River four times, using road bridges. I couldn’t capture this path because it was becoming dark. We arrived at the Chiang Mai-Chiang Rai highway (Highway 118) about 20:00 hours and came to a halt. For the most part of the route, there were no lamps.

We landed in Chiang Mai about 21:30 p.m. After crossing Highway 1, the minivan continued towards Nimmanhemin. We were the last ones picked up and the first to be dropped off. After bidding goodbye to all of our tourmates (we were unable to get a group shot). We had dinner at the same Chinese restaurant where we ate breakfast. At 23:00, we checked into our flat, took a bath, and went to bed. A fantastic journey.

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