10th November, 2023: This day was scheduled to be spent seeing Chiang Mai’s old center, but a reread of Lonely Planet’s Chiang Mai guide convinced me otherwise. Mum awakened earlier than usual, and I woke at 08:00. This was also the day we had to leave Chiang Mai and go to either Ayutthaya or Bangkok, depending on the circumstances of the delay (our train, the CNR Special Express, leaving Chiang Mai Railway Station at 18:20 hours). Laundry must be completed. The Hillside Condominium 1 apartment on Nimmanhemin Road offers not only condos, but also shops (7-Eleven in the condominium, divided into two sections: one for groceries, the other for health and wellbeing) and a laundromat (Ruk Arporn Laundry). We propose the Salad Concept restaurant, which is located right across the street from the building. Because the path is dotted with shops and restaurants, its placement (in the Suthep area) is ideal.

The laundry provided a ‘Wash and Dry’ service for one kilogram for 50 bahts; the expedited service costs 90 bahts and takes approximately 2-3 hours. We decided to check out early, so we called Arm and informed him of our departure time (at 10:00 a.m.) and dropped the keys off at the office. I texted him in Thai because he did not speak much English. Our bags will be retained in the room because our train departs much later; I informed the laundromat attendant that I required them at 16:30 hours, when we returned to retrieve our luggage. Arm was kind enough to arrange for our baggage to be picked up at her laundromat when we arrived.

What was the reason behind the change in plans? Exploring Chiang Mai’s ancient city with our initial points of interest took around five hours (on foot); I decided to include another famous sight, Doi Suthep. Locals argue that unless you see Doi Suthep, you have not fully visited Chiang Mai. So, without further ado, we headed to the hill first.

Doi Suthep and Doi Pui (which I planned to visit) are Thailand’s most sacred mountains. It is situated on the western fringes of Chiang Mai and spans around 300 square kilometers. It is rich in forests, waterfalls, and mountain riding trails. It is now part of the “Doi Suthep-Pui National Park.” There were plenty of song-thaews waiting outside our condominium to transport tourists. But we decided to take a Grab cab to the Chiang Mai University bus stop (we attempted to reserve a Grab taxi to Doi Suthep but were unable). As soon as we arrived at the bus stop, the Grab cab driver directed the tout to approach us and negotiate the fare. We had tough negotiations, but we were able to agree on a 100-baht tip for Doi Suthep.

This was our first journey in a song-thaew, and as we ascended, the vegetation and climate improved. Several mountain bikers, predominantly Westerners, and pedestrians were spotted on the road. It took roughly half an hour to reach Wat Phra That Doi Suthep. Mum posed for some humorous photographs, and I could see she was thrilled. Doi Suthep’s elevation is 5,499 ft.

Wat Phra That Doi Suthep: It was founded in 1383 by King Ku Naone and has a very unusual history. Sumanthera, a monk, was carrying a relic (possibly Buddha’s scapula) from Sukhothai (south of the Lanna kingdom; now in north-central Thailand) when it shattered (the smaller portion is housed in Wat Suan Dok). A white elephant was despatched to fetch the larger fragment, but it perished while mounting the hill. The king built this shrine on the spot where it died. There are 306 steps to this temple, with the entrance flanked by two Nagas, although there is a cable car station (constructed by Philips) nearby for 20 bahts.

We decided to take the cable car up and then descend through those steps. Another flight of stairs takes us to the inner patio. A walkway encircle a golden ‘chedi’, which shelters the artifact. Many Buddha sculptures can be found here, as well as paintings inside shrines near the walkway. Pilgrims carry a lotus bloom and a prayer card (obverse in Thai, reverse in English – the transliteration of the prayer in Pali (a Sanskrit-derived language used in Buddhist traditions) and walk around the chedi three times. I did not recite the prayer, but I completed three circumambulations around the clock. I also snapped a few pictures while circumambulating. Inside one shrine, I saw a Buddhist monk blessing people after they donated 10 baht to the contribution bowl. I did this and received blessings in English (keeping our family (my wife, my children, and me) safe from harm and helping us to succeed in our careers—that’s what he said, but I’m not married!)

Outside the inner terrace, there is another walkway lined with bread-fruit trees, little shrines, a statue of a white elephant (which carried the relic and died) and a terrace with a view of Chiang Mai. The photographs below convey the story. On one end, there is a “Doi Suthep Vipassana Meditation Center” that offers religious outreach to visitors.

Doi Suthep, Chiang Mai.

A collection of photographs (the above two showing the sky at Doi Suthep and a view of Chiang Mai, and rest of them show the route towards Doi Pui in a songthaew. The last three pictures show a narrow street in the hill, lined with shops.

Mum did not access the inner terrace, but rather waited for me outside in a pavilion. We descended 306 steps before boarding another song-thaew to Doi Pui. On the way, there was Bhubing Palace (the royal family’s winter palace), which was currently closed for repairs. This song-thaew was brand new, and the seats were in good shape, unlike the previous one. We couldn’t bargain much here, though, and had to pay 200 baht each.

Mum was having a tantrum and was going to slide off the cliff onto the road! I, too, lost my equilibrium and fell off the song-thaew at one point. It was traveling quicker. The road narrowed as it reached Doi Pui (straight ahead is Khun Chiang Khian, a coffee-producing town with Japanese-style gardens). These communities are home to the Hmong ethnic community.

I arrived at a gate bearing the inscription ‘Ban Doi Pui’ and walked past the tourist trap of vendors selling clothes, perfumes, drinks, and jewelry. Mum was fatigued after the moderate ascent from the entrance and told me to go; her pace couldn’t keep up with mine. This hill has an elevation of 5,528 feet (Doi means “hill” in Thai). The surrounding countryside was stunning, with exotic-looking flowers of varied hues. A waterfall is close to the garden (there aren’t many tourists in Doi Pui, but those that were there took pictures).

The village road is accessible via a set of steps (some of which have worn away, so proceed with caution; I did). There is a cafe on that road, but I decided to travel further for the excitement of it until I encountered a bunch of violent stray dogs screaming and barking at me.

I felt obliged to flee because I was alone there. Despite my palpitations, nervousness, and adrenaline surge, I entered the compound of a Protestant church on the left (Doi Pui Church) to flee these vicious dogs. But there was a problem. There was no one inside the church. The mobile network was poor, and I didn’t know how to call Mum. I regained my strength, returned to the same road, and continued walking in the same way as when I first entered the Doi Pui Garden. I prayed the dogs wouldn’t follow me, and I was fortunate.

To be honest, Doi Suthep is the primary attraction. Doi Pui does not have much to offer in terms of sightseeing and activities. I didn’t know about Khun Chiang Khian (maybe next time?), so I flagged down a song-thaew, and the driver (called Wa Ram) consented to drop us off at the Chiang Mai University bus stop. Mum sat in the song-thaew, and I was in the driving seat. We arrived at the bus station around 12:30 p.m., following a rapid descent. Every passenger has to pay 200 baht. Mum said she was feeling quite nauseated. Oh! (Mum suffered from motion sickness, and to be honest, the manner the song-thaew rode back to Chiang Mai, paired with its high speed, would have sent her into a frenzy! She specifically instructed me not to take her on a hill anymore…)

We had to wait 10 minutes for Mum to recover before getting a Grab taxi to Wat Phra Singh, the first site of interest in Chiang Mai’s old city. As we approached our destination, the traffic mayhem and snarls intensified. While driving the SUV, the lady cab driver kept her cool. It took 150 baht to get here from the university bus stop and arrived at 13:10 p.m. I had around three hours to explore the historic city of Chiang Mai. Mum chose to wait outside because she wasn’t interested in the temples.

A brief history of the city: King Phraya Mengrai founded Chiang Mai and also formed the Lanna kingdom. Wiang Kum Kam, along the Ping River (which will serve as your guide if you want to wander around the city), was the capital he planned to create. It was, however, swamped and ultimately abandoned. He relocated the city near Doi Suthep and renamed it Chiang Mai (legally Nopburi Si Nakhon Ping Chiang Mai) in 1296. What is the meaning behind the city’s name? A new walled city. The kingdom was powerful until it fell to the Burmese in 1556, when Phraya Taksin reclaimed it (with the help of Chao Kawila, a chieftain from the adjacent town of Lampang). Chiang Mai was absorbed into the Kingdom of Siam. It flourished under Kawila, with a strong teak commerce. Despite the fact that the city and country were never controlled by European forces, European merchants who did visit built colonial-style homes out of locally made teak.

Wat Phra Singh: It is the most sacred temple in Chiang Mai. Phra Singh translates as “Lion Buddha.” King Phayu, the fifth king of the Mangrai dynasty, constructed it in 1345. Wihan Luang appears to be elegantly simple and huge, containing the Phra Phuttha Sihing (although this is disputed, as two Buddha statues claim to be the “Phra Phuttha Sihing,” one in the Bangkok National Museum and the other in Nakhon Si Thammarat’s Wat Mahathat). Behind this wihan is a golden ‘chedi’ containing the ashes of King Kham Phu (King Phayu’s father). It has an octagonal base, which is typical of Lanna architecture. Wihan Lai Kham, located south of this chedi, holds the famed idol Phra Singh. This idol is supposed to have arrived from Sri Lanka. This wihan is connected to Kulai Chedi via an interior corridor. The chedi is close to the ubosot. After the Burmese occupied Chiang Mai and left the temple in ruins, Kawila restored it to its former beauty. King Rama VIII upgraded it to the level of first-class temple.

The temple took me an hour to tour. It is stunning, especially the chedi and Wihan Luang, in my opinion. Wat Phra Singh is a hidden gem in Chiang Mai that you should not miss.

We had to eat lunch because it was already 13:50. Walking along Ratchadamnoen Road, I spotted a huge group of Westerners gathered outside the popular “It’s Good Kitchen” restaurant. We chose a quiet restaurant a bit farther down the road, “Baan Lanna Thai Cuisine Restaurant,” which serves wonderful Khaosoi-Kai (Northern Thai Curry Noodles). Mum chose shrimp noodles with plain rice, while I opted vegetarian. The restaurant was different from the others in that the server gave us a piece of paper with a checklist of products we needed to buy (printed in both Thai and English) and a pen. Ingenious.

Khaosoi-Kai food in the lower center of the gallery

We were on our way to Wat Chedi Luang after lunch (the food is amazing!) when Mum informed me that she was too fatigued to continue walking. She directed to a juice shop near the Chiang Mai Police Station and offered to wait for me until I found my sites of interest. I went to the next temple without her, following the GPS. The burning heat accompanied every stride I took. (Unfortunately, I did not visit Wat Chedi Luang; guess why? Thanks to Google Maps, I assumed Wat Phan Tao was Wat Chedi Luang!

Wat Phan Tao: It is located near Wat Chedi Luang and consists of a wihan supported by 28 teak pillars joined by teak panels. Inside the wihan, there is a golden Buddha statue, Phan Tao Phuttha, and a chedi just behind it. It’s worth noting that the facade at the entry portrays a peacock over a dog, representing the astrological year of King Mahotharaprathet, Chiang Mai’s fifth king. I believe the teak panels and pillars are what make it so beautiful. I continued to the Anusawari Sam Kasat, popularly known as the Three Kings Monument, by turning off Ratchadamnoen Road and into Prapokkloa Road.

Anusawari Sam Kasat: These bronze statues of Chiang Mai’s King Phraya Mengrai, King Phaya Ngam Muang of Phayao (a Thai province bordering Chiang Mai), and King Phaya Khun Ramkhamhaeng of Sukhothai commemorate the alliance forged when Chiang Mai was built. It is bounded by a pedestrian square. The Lanna Folklife Museum is located on the opposite side of Prapokkloa Road.

Lanna Folklife Museum: Chiang Mai has three historical museums: the Lanna Folklife Museum, the Chiang Mai Historical Centre, and the Chiang Mai City Arts & Cultural Centre. Due to time constraints, I chose the Lanna Folklife Museum. However, the ticket you purchase is valid at any museum. Prior to its transformation into the Lanna Folklife Museum, it served as a Provincial Court. It includes wonderful details about the Lanna way of life, such as sculptures, mural paintings, fabrics, crown jewels, lacquerwares, music, food, and weaving things (I subsequently realized I had forgotten to buy lacquerware, one of Chiang Mai’s specialties).

From the museum, I walked to Wat Chiang Man. It was around 15:10.

Wat Chiang Man: It is the oldest temple, erected in 1296 by Phaya Mengrai. Wihan Luang is the bigger of the two wihans. It houses a Standing Buddha statue representing Buddha carrying an alms bowl, which is claimed to be one of Thailand’s oldest statues, dating from 1465. (It is spelled there as 1465 in Thai). The smaller wihan houses two famous Buddha statues, Phra Sila and Phra Kaew Khao. The former (made of stone) is claimed to have rain-making properties, whereas the latter (made of quartz) is said to protect against calamities. They are kept in a golden cage. The Chang Lom Chedi (also known as the Elephant Chedi) can be found in the Wat Chiang Man complex.

It took me approximately half an hour to see this temple and comprehend its significance because it is the oldest. I needed to return to Mum’s location. As I walked back, I discovered I only had two mobile phones, so I couldn’t reach her! I returned to the same location where I had left Mum, perspiring despite the burning heat. She was furious with me for abandoning her for such an extended period of time. Then I made a hasty decision to visit Talat Warorot, located east of the Old City. Mum warned me not to waste money when we were supposed to return to the flat to retrieve our things. Anyway, after roughly ten minutes, here are some shots of Talat Warorot. (This is not the proper technique to explore a market.)

The lady taxi driver who transported us from Talat Warorot to our condo was really polite and courteous. Mum asked her if she could continue driving to the Chiang Mai train station (the destination in our mobile phone application was the condominium), with the fare paid from the apartment to the railway station using the Grab app. She consented. After a long journey from the market, we arrived at the condominium at 16:45, picked up our bags and laundry at the laundromat, and headed to the railway station.

The fare from the market to the condominium was 129 baht, and the fare from the condominium to the railway station was an additional 100 baht, totaling 229 baht. We arrived at the train station. We both behaved weirdly, not speaking to one another for about an hour. As I sat in the railway station, I observed people come and go, keeping an eye on the notice board for the arrival of our train, the CNR Special Express heading for Bangkok (Krung Thep Aphiwat).

The train arrived at platform 6 at 18:00. We rolled our bags to the platform’s end, boarded the train in car number 4, and then transferred to vehicle number 1. Our car is in the first class section of this train, and we have our own compartment. It looked elegant with its velvet seats and upper berth bed. An air vent above our cubicle caused the temperature to drop to sub-arctic. There were on-screen display terminals for both upper and lower berths, but only one was functional. Except for power on and off, the surrounding terminal control buttons do not operate. On the other end was a reading light with brightness and dimming controls.

A washbasin, a mirror cabinet with two tumblers, and a door leading to another compartment (clearly locked) were positioned opposite the beds. The train conductor presented us with individual blankets while preparing the upper berth bunk. The conductor call indicator was broken and couldn’t be turned off. The other end of the car, where the train engine is attached, features two urinals, a restroom, and a shower. The photographs below convey the full tale.

The train does not have a restaurant car. There’s a man accepting orders from a limited menu. We were satiated after two ‘pad thais’ each at a restaurant near the train station, so we didn’t eat anything extra. We went to bed at 20:30, and the last thing I remember seeing outside the window was the train pausing briefly at the Lampang railway station.

As I departed, I debated returning to Chiang Mai to see what I had missed: Talat Warorot, Talat Ton Lam Yai, Doi Inthanon, and the weekend markets. While writing this post, I discovered that I had not been to Wat Chedi Luang.

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